Bburago first issued the Ferrari 250 GTO 1962 #3011 in 1984.
It is probably the most famous of all the 1/18 Diamonds range.
It also has been the most popular choice
for conversions by many. The original standard model
(stock model) comes in "Ferrari Red"
and is labelled a 1962 on its base. These models
are not perfect replicates of any of the real 39
GTOs built. A few strange ommisions
also exist like the lack of windscreen
wipers, indicator lights etc. The version presented here is
The Targa Florio version from 1963 Chassis #4091 driven by Argentinian driver
Juan Manual Bordeu #108 entry. It is easy, however, to convert #3011 into
any other version, provided one has adequate Ferrari GTO literature.
Tons of Ferrari books are available. My favourite, which is also considered the GTO Bible by many,
is The Ferrari Legend 250 GT Competition by Jess G Pourret. This wonderful book covers
the TDF, SWB and GTO almost completely, and is by far the best Ferrari 250 GT source yet!!
Ferrari 250 GTO Tips :
Many features and details have changed constantly on these magnificent cars as they
passed along from one team or owner to the other. Sometimes changes were made many times
on the same car within the same year or even month! So in order to get some
historical accuracy in your conversion try to replicate a certain version or race of the model
you are making. Some of the main important features to take into account with the GTOs evolution,
and/or differences between cars are:
- Front brake cooling holes. ( Some had narrow, oval or alongated ones. Position also varied. )
- Central air slot in the nose. ( Some had narrow, others enlarged ones. )
- Indicator lights. ( Some had recessed ones. )
- Right or left hand drive.
- Oil and petrol filler side.
- Louvres on bonnet.
- Plastic scoops on bonnet ( Some had reversed ones or none, their size and color also varied. )
- Rear lights. ( Most GTOs from the 13th chassis # 3705 GT onwards had raised rear lights. )
- Vertical slots on each side. ( Later GTOs had three instead of two found on Bburago #3011. )
- Bonnet bulge. ( A couple of the GTOs had taller engines with three Webers. )
- Air exraction holes on front wings ( 3 of the GTOs with 4 liter engines had them to improve cooling. )
- Avoid replicating chassis #3673 SA ( It had different wheel sizes. )
- In order to replicate the 1964 GTOs use Guiloy # 67525 or Jouef # 3002.
- Replicating chassis # 2819 or the "Breadvan" would require much more effort!!
TIPS :
- If you are not using the kit version as your starting point, you should
strip your base model completely of all its parts before starting.
- To remove decals carefully without damaging them, use a good decal remover
solution but be careful, some solutions can ruin your decals. I prefer to use a weak paint
thinner to soften the paint around them and then remove them together with the layer of
paint beneath them with a good razer. The disadvantage with this method is
that one has to glue them back on when the model is repainted which gives them a
risen appearance... still on the other hand, that's exactly how they look like on the real car.
- Use only metal filler on the model.
- Use a very high grade water proof sand paper (600 or more) for the final finish
before repainting.
- Finding good literature and pictures are
essential in order to form and make your model accurate.
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