Converting a stock ERTL #7359 or 7365 Chevrolet Sting Ray 1963 "Split Window"
into a later (64,65,66,67) version is not so hard. The 64, 65 models, however, are the easiest to
make since there were no significant visible changes within the interior of the
cars and engine ( mostly instruments but hardly noticable on the model ).
The 65, however, could be ordered with the new big block 396 V8. The 65 was also the last
year with fuel injection.
In that sense, most obvious changes were with the exterior of the car, the most
dramatical of them being that the split window dissapeared. ( 8304 coupes
were sold in 1964, followed by 8186 in 1965. )
Corvette 1964 Tips :
- As mentioned earlier the Split window dissapears.
- Hood air intake. ( No mock-up grills on the front hood, but fake air intakes. )
- Making the window frame on the back can be a little tricky if one wants a good result.
I used a silicon mould and epoxy to make it which I then covered with chrome tape.
- The air slots on the front wings changed in 1965.
- Finding good literature and pictures are
essential in order to form and make your model accurate.
TIPS :
- When cutting the split window ridge off use a high speed cutting tool.
- Strip your base model completely of all its parts before starting.
- To remove decals carefully without damaging them, use a good decal remover
solution but be careful, some solutions can ruin your decals. I prefer to use a weak paint
thinner to soften the paint around them and then remove them together with the layer of
paint beneath them with a good razer. The disadvantage with this method is
that one has to glue them back on when the model is repainted which gives them a
risen appearance... still on the other hand that's exactly how they look like on the real car.
- Use only metal filler on the model.
- Use a very high grade water proof sand paper (600 or more) for the final finish
before repainting.
- Finding good literature and pictures are
essential in order to form and make your model accurate.
|
