The Citroën 7cv, 11cv and 15cv or Traction Avant as the French called it was
made into 4 different main versions, the Legère, Cabriolet, Normal and Familiale or Berlines.
Maistos Citroën 15cv # 31821 represents the last two which had a longer wheel base.
In 1952-53 Citroën introduced the big or long boot version, these funny bulgy boots had
been appearing even on some earlier models. There were also some offered by other
car accessory makers which could convert a small boot to a big one!
The converted model represented here is the standard 1950 15cv model.
Notice that Maisto also has made a normal boot version # 31837. It came out after
I had already built my conversion. I would have still done it, however, since there
is no comparing the Maisto and the custom one here, Well u be the judge! (See bottom picture).
Citroen 15cv 1950 Tips :
- All 1950 15cv Citroëns had their wheels painted in hay (beige) color.
- Their front position lights (indicator) where mounted sticking out of the front wings.
- All 1950 15cv Citroëns had their wipers positioned above the windsreen.
- The interior was pretty much the same with only minor changes on the 52-53 models.
- The wheel cover is made from epoxy using a silicon mould.
Any hobby or even industrial silicon can be used. I prefer to use a high grade variant
which gives some flexibility in the mould, this allows more complex forms to be made
without the need for a two sided mould. It also makes the mould less likely to break
and can therefore be reused many times.
- In order to make the boot lid, remove the base model's original one, then make
one out of aluminum or copper sheat (other materials can be used). A lot of
filling grinding and filing is required but that's what makes it fun!! Notice that the boot does
not open on the conversion, it would be simply too
time consuming and complicated to do so. Funny, even Maisto must have thought so.
( Maisto # 31837 )
TIPS :
- Strip your base model completely of all its parts before starting.
- To remove decals carefully without damaging them, use a good decal remover
solution but be careful, some solutions can ruin your decals. I prefer to use a weak paint
thinner to soften the paint around them and then remove them together with the layer of
paint beneath them with a good razer. The disadvantage with this method is
that one has to glue them back on when the model is repainted which gives them a
risen appearance... still on the other hand that's exactly how they look like on the real car.
- Use only metal filler on the model.
- Use a very high grade water proof sand paper (600 or more) for the final finish
before repainting.
- Finding good literature and pictures are
essential in order to form and make your model accurate.
|
